Friday, January 3, 2014

Let us now praise famous winter vegetables: Waltham Butternut

I've been growing winter squash for only three years, but I've learned a lot. First, not to plant it near the fence adjoining the back field, because woodchucks will sneak in and eat it, even with a pretty solid second wire fence around the squash patch.  Sol works hard to keep the woodchucks out of the garden, but near the fence line it is  just too easy for them to sneak through.

Second, to give them ROOM! Compact winter squash are cute, but don't set much fruit. To get lots of big storage squash, let the vines spread out. Space also reduces mildew and gives the fruit time to mature.

And third, if you want a lot of medium sized fruit for winter storage, plant Waltham butternut, especially if you live in Massachusetts, where this cultivar was developed. One of the first things I noticed when I moved here in September over twenty years ago was that that many of the farmed acres nearby were planted in butternut squash, and I think it’s safe to say it was Waltham.  Butternut is such a major crop in my neighborhood that the farmers have heated outbuildings with temperature alarms for storing them.

 The species is Cucurbita moschata, just like my beloved trombone squash, which means it is also resistant to squash vine borers, cucumber beetles, and the fungal infections they spread. It produces up to five pound fruit with thick straight necks that are easy to peel, and I got four per plant this year, which is about average. 
Here's a picture taken in May of where I  eventually planted my two vines-- in the straw between the raspberry patch and the potato bed Sol is sitting in:




I planted the seeds in June, and when the potatoes came out in July I let the vines climb into the bed and spread out:




Soon there were some young striped fruit. I put dry grass under the fruit to make sure they didn't develop fungus on the underside:




I waited until the fruit was evenly tan in color, and the vines beginning to die back ( late September) before cutting the fruit off with a sharp knife and leaving it to dry in place for a few days. Then I moved them to the garage for a week or so, and finally into my upstairs back bedroom, which is kept at around 55 degrees all winter, an ideal temp for winter squash storage.

Here's a pic of the first six:




I picked two more in early October, including this one that had rambled into the raspberries and hidden itself from me for weeks:


I made my favorite butternut dish,  a simple casserole of one large squash sliced thin and  baked with onion, butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg, for Thanksgiving dinner. I was disappointed  because it was pale, watery and bland.  I made it again for Christmas and it was delicious: drier, deep orange, and packed with sweet nutty flavor.  
That was when I really understood that butternut squash is like wine-- it needs to age.  The fruit I used in November was one of the late ones, and not ready yet. Next year I'll sharpie the dates of harvest on my squash, and use them oldest first. 

Meanwhile, there are still three left.  Three big beautiful Waltham butternuts to enjoy in the depths of winter.



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